jeffrey h
We recently took a birding trip through NSW. We didn't make it as far as the true outback, which as I understand it is close to true desert. But we did make it to Baradine, a small town 40 kms north of Coonabarabran. It was our original intent to stay near Coonabarabran and make day trips into Warrumbungle National Park. As there was a devastating fire in the park a year ago, we looked for another birding location in the same habitat and the Pilliga Forest, on the the north side of the Warrunbungles was recommended.|||| Baradine, a former logging town, is almost the only vestige of civilization right in the Pilliga. Another town, Narrabri, is on the northern fringe and appears to be more prosperous with several real motels, but was further out of our way. We were directed by Mr. Google and Tripadvisor to the Warrigal B&B, which received at least one strong vote. Boy, did we make a lucky decision to stay here!|||| Our host, Rick, was away when we arrived, but a thoughtful note instructed us to occupy our room. The room had a canopy bed, a desk, table and armoire, all in vintage dark wood. There was also a small sofa, air conditioning and all the other conveniences you would expect. The WC was modern and included a shower.|| We were extremely comfortable. Although not opulent, the furnishings were harmonious and there was plenty of room to move around. The room had the feel of a pleasant country home.|| The Warrigal B&B is situated on a couple acres on the edge of the small village. There is a lawn, a couple bird baths, several ornamental trees and shrubs that blends into the surrounding pine forest. Out back, Rick raises a few ornamental chickens and in neighboring paddocks you can see goats, kangaroos and a venerable (and perhaps a bit melancholy) pony.|| If like us, you are a bit of a birder, there are a number of birds that enjoy Rick's yard. Redwing, Turquoise and Ringneck Parrots, along with the expected rosellas and gallahs. Superb wrens live near the porch and Noisy Friarbirds hop about (with much humorous honking) in the trees. The porch is an all-world place to kick back with your binocs, a bird book and a water bottle on a warm afternoon. Rick directed us to the general location of a bower of the Spotted Bowerbird at the back of the garden. We saw both the male bowerbird and his handiwork!|| Perhaps the best part was our host. Rick was more than generous. My wife forbids me from telling you all the nice things he did for us for fear that he might feel under some obligation to provide these things for all his guests. Among other things, though, he contacted a local birdwatcher who provided us a killer spot to see some birds on the way to the Sculptures in the Bush. Who can say what he might do for you?|| Without being intrusive, Rick was willing to engage in conversation on a variety of topics. In a way, his quiet country demeanor and dry sense of humor and intellectual curiosity reminded me of some friends I have from the Kansas and Nebraska. Trisha, Rick's wife, teaches school 40 miles away and she was gone most of the time we were there. We got to meet her on Saturday morning, about the time we were departing. She is charming and we regretted not getting to spend more time with her. || The Warrigal B&B website presents the Sculptures in the Bush as if they might be in the yard of the B&B. It took a minimum of scouting around to discover that they are 20 kms distant on well graded gravel roads. From the dusty car park, we took the 1.5 km hike to the sculptures and found them very interesting. Who and why someone decided to put them in the very middle of nowhere is a question for the ages. its a beautiful hike, but the flies were more than a little bothersome. The local attendant said that they attract 10 visitors a day, which may not seem like much until you look at a map. Or make it to the end of that gravel road. This is not a place you get to by accident!|| When I told Rick that I was going to write him a glowing review, he asked that I not over do it, as he didn't want to work too hard. It could be that he vets his potential guests. If you are lucky, as we were, you will be selected to spend a few memorable nights in Rick's comfortable country home.
